We always recommend the AK-V for beginners. It's a super reliable tufting machine – lightweight, very smooth and quiet to use. Thanks to its digital speed control, you can adjust your working speed precisely, which is especially helpful when you’re just starting out. But even once you get more experienced, the AK-V remains an amazing choice. It's Jenni's (Tuftinglove founder) absolute favorite tufting machine and perfect for beginners.

If your budget is tighter, we recommend the AK-I or AK-II – the previous models of the AK-V. They offer the same great quality at a slightly lower price, leaving you a bit more budget for yarns.

➔ More about machine comparisons in the Tufitngmachine section

What equipment do I need to start?

Basically, you need:

🔨 A tufting frame (buy one in our shop or build your own – here’s the link for nail strips)
⚪️ The right base fabric (Tufting Cloth)
💪🏻 A tufting machine
🧶 Yarn

Depending on what you want to create, you also need glue, a backing fabric, and a carving machine.

➔ Check out our Starter Sets here!

It's super important to have a very stable frame and to stretch the tufting cloth really tight (more info about fabrics here).

For yarn, it’s best to use yarn wound onto a cardboard cone – this way, it feeds cleanly into the machine without constantly unthreading.

Your tufting machine is your main tool – don't save money here! A reliable machine like the AK-V makes tufting so much more fun.

➔ Read our detailed blog post about tufting materials here.

➔ Or join our full Tufting Online Workshop (in German) where we teach you everything you need before you start buying material.

We teach you everything you need to know in our Online Workshop:

Overview of all tufting materials

How to properly set up and stretch your tufting frame

How to handle your tufting machine

We tuft a full project together from start to finish, including clean finishing and shaving techniques!

Plus, you get a short guide for building your own frame.

Most beginners start with a Cut Pile tufting machine, like the AK-I Cut Pile or AK-V Cut Pile.

In our shop and workshops, 99% of students pick Cut Pile!

➔ With a simple hack, you can even tuft loops with a Cut Pile machine.

If you love loops, you can later invest in a second machine without having to constantly adjust settings.

➔ Tip: Cut Pile lets you sculpt beautiful 3D effects with a shearing machine!

On the left, you see Cut Pile, and on the right, Loop Pile.

Cut Pile:
With open cut fibers, you have the option to sculpt three-dimensional surfaces using a shearing machine. The result is a beautifully open and super fluffy pile – perfect for creating depth and texture in your designs.

Loop Pile:
With closed loops, you create more structure directly on the surface. By changing the tufting direction, you can achieve various textural effects, giving your work a unique and dynamic look.

Jenni’s Tip:
Combining deep loops with higher cut pile areas creates super cool, three-dimensional effects!

Originally, the original manufacturer started with two models: the AK-I and the AK-II.

The AK-I is the Cut Pile tufting machine, designed for creating open, fluffy piles, while the AK-II is the Loop Pile tufting machine, made for closed, structured loops.

They are like siblings – each specializing depending on the type of surface texture you want to create.

The AK-V is the latest version from the original AK manufacturer. Compared to the AK-I and AK-II, the AK-V is 200g lighter, runs more smoothly, is noticeably quieter, and comes with a small light at the front near the needle as well as a digital speed display.

In other words, it’s not a complete reinvention, but rather a thoughtful upgrade that improves several details while keeping the basic functionality exactly the same.

The AK-V is available in both Cut Pile and Loop Pile versions.

Instead of creating two completely new machines, the manufacturer simply released one improved model in two different variations.

Our recommendation:

We highly recommend the AK-V because we are personally big fans of its improvements and the smoother handling.

However, the AK-I and AK-II are still actively used in our studio workshops and continue to perform perfectly well.

If your budget is a little tighter, the AK-I or AK-II are a great way to save some money when starting out – without sacrificing any functionality.

Yes! Machines like the DUO series and AK-III can do both.

➔ Plus, we have a simple hack for AK-I and AK-V Cut Pile machines to tuft loops! You can find the Tutorial on our english Youtube Channel.

When it comes to high-pile tufting, our absolute favourite is the AK-III.

There’s also the DUO series, which is available in several higher pile variations.

The biggest difference between the two:

The AK-DUO series is essentially a larger version of the AK-I/II.

The machine itself is bigger, the movements are longer, and it has a larger gear wheel.

Because more mass is moving faster, the DUO machines naturally run a bit rougher and less smoothly compared to the smaller AK-I/II models.

However, the DUO models – especially the higher ones – are the most budget-friendly option if you want to start tufting high piles, and you don’t need any extra equipment beyond the machine itself.

The AK-III, on the other hand, is not significantly larger than an AK-I, II, or V.

However, you will need an additional air compressor that can provide a steady 8 bars of pressure.

The yarn is pushed through a hollow needle using air pressure and is cut off with a rotating small blade (or left as loops, depending on the setting).

This setup means you’ll have an extra investment for the compressor, and you should also keep in mind that compressors can be quite loud – depending on where you plan to tuft, noise could definitely be a factor.

That being said:

The AK-III runs much quieter and smoother than the DUO models.

It also allows you to switch pile heights much faster and more comfortably.

Our recommendation:

- For hobby use and occasional tufting, we recommend the DUO series.

- If you plan to tuft often, for long sessions, and want quick and easy height adjustments, then the AK-III is the better choice.

The AK-III is available from us via pre-order.

Simply send us an email at help@tuftinglove.com if you're interested!

This is a really important question because there are now so many cheap copies from unreliable shops floating around.

There are a few key details you can look for to recognize originals:

Red button: Original machines have a black trigger button.

Hook in the wrong place: On fake machines, the little hook for hanging your machine often incorrectly mounted or completely missing.

No safety sensor: Original AK-I and AK-II models have a proper mechanical setup, while many fakes miss important parts like safety sensors.

Square footplate: Some counterfeits have a strangely shaped or oversized footplate instead of the compact and clean original design.

In general:

It’s always smart to avoid faceless, anonymous shops.

I’m Jenni, the founder of Tuftinglove, and I wouldn't personally stand behind our products and share all this detailed knowledge with you if we were selling bad quality.

Plus, we offer a warranty on all our tufting machines – because we know the quality is good and we have nothing to worry about.

I completely understand that tufting is not exactly a cheap hobby.

But when it comes to your main tool, the tufting machine, you really shouldn’t cut corners.

If your machine constantly causes problems, you’ll quickly lose the fun and joy of tufting.

If you want to save a bit when starting out, you can absolutely do so by:

Getting one of our Starter Sets (where you get a nice discount),

Or by choosing an AK-I or AK-II instead of an AK-V.

Important: Technically, all three machines (AK-I, AK-II, and AK-V) can achieve the exact same tufting results – so you're not sacrificing quality if you choose an AK-I or AK-II to save some money at the beginning!

In principle, you can tuft with any yarn that fits through the tufting machine's needle and can be cut by the scissors or blade inside the machine. Depending on your machine, this can vary. All the yarns we sell in our tufting shop are suitable for tufting: [Link].

It’s always beneficial to use yarn on a cardboard cone instead of a ball, as it unwinds smoothly without tension, preventing the yarn from unraveling in the machine.

Creative tip from Jenni: With the loop pile machine, the yarn doesn't need to be cut. You can tuft thin fabric strips, gift ribbons, etc. :)

Important: Depending on what you're tufting, the yarn must withstand the corresponding level of stress. For example, a rug needs stronger yarn than a wall hanging, where you can use practically any yarn since there’s little wear and tear. Our tufting yarns are all suitable for rugs unless stated otherwise in the product description.

All suitable tufting yarns can be found here 🧶

The yarn you choose should not only match the color of your tufting project but also its intended use. For a soft pillow, you'd choose a finer, softer yarn, whereas for a high-traffic rug, wool would be better, as it’s more durable. Always consider the demands of the end product.

With 80 colors, acrylic yarn offers a wide range of options. The colors are vibrant and bright, plus the yarn is incredibly soft and fluffy. Compared to rug wool, acrylic yarn is lighter per meter used. This means 400g of acrylic yarn covers a larger area than 400g of wool. Thus, using acrylic yarn can be a bit more cost efficient

We love using acrylic yarn for bathroom rugs, patches, pillow covers, and everything that needs to be soft and fluffy. However, it’s not ideal for an entryway rug, as it's less durable and gets dirty more quickly than wool.

Tufting wool is a natural product, which already makes it a great choice. It’s more durable than acrylic yarn. The colors are more muted due to the natural structure and color of sheep wool. Wool is also heat resistant, making it perfect for things like pot holders. Additionally, wool is a great indicator of good room climate. If the air is too dry, wool rugs will start shedding, indicating that you need to open your windows more often to improve ventilation.

Tip: Don’t use wool for shower rugs. Wool absorbs water very well and holds onto moisture. For shower rugs, we recommend using acrylic yarn or cotton if you want a natural option.

Sort of! The important thing to know is that different materials stress the scissors or blades in cut-pile tufting machines differently. For example, tufting with wool, which is rougher and thicker, will put more strain on the blade than acrylic yarn would. So, if you're switching between wool and acrylic yarn, you'll need to swap out the blades accordingly.

That’s why I say "sort of" – I personally don’t like to change blades all the time. If you tuft with various yarn types frequently, it might be worthwhile to have separate machines for different materials.

We always recommend starting with our Premium Tufting Cloth 70/70. It’s very reliable and strong, so you can be sure it won’t let you down. The guiding lines make it easy to stretch the cloth evenly and straight.

The 60/60 fabric works as well, though it's gray compared to the white 70/70, which makes the drawn lines more visible. However, this is purely a matter of preference and doesn’t affect the fabric’s quality.

The Premium Tufting Cloth is 100% polyester and made specifically for tufting. The fibers are incredibly strong and can withstand the force from the tufting machine while maintaining tension. It has guiding lines every 50 cm both horizontally and vertically, making it easier to stretch perfectly. We highly recommend the Premium Tufting Cloth, as it’s used in the industry, produced in Germany, and provides the best foundation for tufting.

The Saver Cloth is a cotton-polyester blend. It’s a bit cheaper than the Premium version but not as tear-resistant. We recommend the Saver cloth only for small projects, up to 1x1 m. For larger projects, the tension might become too great, and it may not hold up as well. The Saver fabric has guiding lines in just one direction (either horizontal or vertical depending on how you stretch it).

Why do we still offer the Saver Cloth?
Many of you have asked for it, and, like with many things, it’s a matter of taste. We want to offer a full range of fabrics for every budget. The Saver Cloth is great for smaller projects and absolutely suitable for that.

These numbers refer to the number of threads woven into 10 cm, both warp and weft threads. The gray 60/60 fabric has 10 fewer threads than the white 70/70 fabric. This is particularly relevant for larger tufting projects.

When tufting, the yarn is pushed into the fabric with each stitch, stretching it and causing the threads to shift. The larger the project, the more the fabric will stretch, so having fewer threads makes more room for the yarn.

NO! Monk’s cloth is 100% cotton and is suitable for tufting. The weave is much too dense and structured differently, making it difficult for the tufting machine’s needle to pass through. It also won't withstand the tension and force of the machine, leading to tears. Always buy proper tufting cloth to avoid struggling with holes in your base fabric.

Unfortunately, no. As mentioned earlier, the tufting machine is rough, and it pushes the yarn into the fabric. Therefore, the fabric must be durable and able to hold tension. If you want to add fluff to other materials, that’s a job for punch needling, as it offers different needle thicknesses for various base fabrics.

Not really :) In general, tufting wool or acrylic yarn is much thicker and denser than human hair, and a hair trimmer is not designed for this. That said, there are models that can handle it, but others cannot. Cheap hair clippers (around 20-30 CHF) won’t do the job well.

Additionally, hair clippers are often battery-operated, and if the workload increases, the battery can drain quickly...

If you want to do dimensional work, it’s definitely worth investing in a proper carving machine.

Yes, but they won’t be loops anymore. You’re essentially cutting them, which can be a bit tedious since you’re cutting through more yarn volume. You can shorten them and create a cut pile, but if you want shorter loops, you’ll need to properly adjust the tufting machine before tufting.

Yes, wash on a gentle 30° cycle and remove the rug from the machine immediately after washing. Lay it flat on a drying rack to dry. Be sure to fluff it up a bit while drying so it doesn’t dry with any wrinkles or creases.